Road from Bishkek to Osh

The Bishkek – Osh road (620 km). 

The spectacular Bishkek-Osh highway is a major trans-republican highway and the only main road connecting Russia with south of Central Asia going through the Tian Shan and Pamir mountain ranges down to Tajikistan and Afghanistan

It has been under reconstruction for few years and it was planned to spend over USD200 million on repairs, currently most of the work is done. 

At first the road goes west, from Bishkek to Karabalta, through Dungan villages. Dungans crossed the border from China over hundred years ago because of persecution in China, and now they grow all sorts of vegetables that pack Bishkek’s markets. Before Karabalta the road turns south into the Kyrgyz Alatau range and goes up through the narrow gorge into the Tuu Ashu pass where a tunnel, (3686m), has been driven through to the other side.  (The old, disused, road can still be seen - climbing still further above the tunnel to cross over the actual pass.)   

The road turns south into the Kyrgyz Alatau range and goes up through the narrow gorge into the Tuu Ashu pass where a tunnel, (3686m), has been driven through to the other side.  (The old, disused, road can still be seen - climbing still further above the tunnel to cross over the actual pass.)  

After the pass, the road descends into the Suusamyr valley.  Here is an abundance of green pasture land on a high steppe plateau – 2200m a.s.l.  Since 1991, the flocks of sheep grazing here have dwindled substantially and the people have diversified into other forms of agriculture – growing potatoes, garlic, cabbages and fodder crops.

One traveller at the beginning of 20^th century wrote of Suusamyr: “It is night. Pressing closely around a yurt, sheep are deep in slumber, breathing evenly… The moon glides across the sky stumbling over clouds, and the peaks of the mountains, resembling enormous blocks of blue marble, are illuminated by mysterious inner light.  Slowly the darkness is pushed back as, morning light rises from behind the rim of the mountains… morning in the meadows, in Suusamyr.”

The village of Suusamyr, itself, luies at the Eastern end of the plain – and the road through the the village leads down the Kekemeren valley and back to Kochkor, or off to Lake Son Kul. 

After Suusamyr the road turns west again.  After a while there is a turn off to the Otmek Pass, the Talas Valley and the road to Taraz (Djambul) in Kazakhstan.

The road goes over Ala Bel pass (3184 m) which is lower, wider and longer than the Tuu Ashu pass, but can present difficultuies in the winter.  Then it passes through the narrow gorge of the heavily forested Chichkan State Zoological Reserve. 

The road swoops down to one of the most beautiful reservoirs in Central Asia, the Toktogul Reservior.  The town of Toktogul is located on the Northern shore of the reservoir.  It is named after the famous akyn who was born here – and whose portrait appears on the 100 som banknote. 

The road sweeps round the eastern section of the reservoir and before turning south once more and heading towards the towns of Karakul (for the Toktogul Powerstation and Dam) and Tash Kumir before entering the Fergana valley.  

The reservoir funnels the gorgeous Naryn River into a hydroelectric station to the South – also called Toktolgul, and also featured on the 100 som banknote.

The road passes through a narrow valley with sheer walls and pillars of red sandstone.  The river passes through a series of further dams, reservoirs and power stations – but not as dramatic as the one at Toktogul. 

Turning right in Tash-Kumir and driving for about 150km it is possible to reach the Sary Chelek biosphere reserve that was founded in 1959, to protect and research the pristine natural landscapes, with its lowland steppes, mountain ridges with snow-capped peaks; rapid rivers and mountain lakes; blossoming valleys and alpine meadows (lying between 1200m and 4274m) - with a variety of flora and fauna.  More than 1000 species of plants, 160 species of birds and 34 species of mammals (such as deer, bear, lynx, wolves, foxes, badgers, porcupine … even snow leopards) can be found in this relatively small, unspoiled national park.

Entering the Ferghana valley there are vistas of seemingly endless flat fields (mainly cotton), which can be seen through the trees which line the roadside.  The road turns east and skirts through detours constructed in the past few years to bypass stretches of Uzbek territory which bulge into Kyrgyz Territory.

At Bazar Korgon, there is a turn off to Arslan Bob – famous for the relicts of walnut forests. 

The next major town is Djalalabad – a resort town and market garden center.   

The road used to travel southwards to Osh – but as this means crossing Uzbek territory, the modern route proceeds eastwards to Uzgen, with its famous Mausoleums and Minaret (XI century), before swinging westwards once more to approach Osh.

Timing: Bishkek-Suusamyr: 4.5 hours, Bishkek-Toktogul: 8 hours; Bishkek-Karakul – 10 hours; Bishkek-Djalalabad - 10 hours; Bishkek-Osh requires about 12-14 hours … so it can be done in one day, although it is probably better to break the journey en route. 

Accommodation options en route: Suusamyr – homestay or yurt camp; Chichkan – guesthouse; Toktogul – homestay; Karakul – motel; Arslan Bob – homestay; Djalal-Abad – hotel, homestay.

There are currently no scheduled bus services along the entire route - although plans were announced in 2005 for services to be established in the summer months.  In winter months the road can suffer from avalanches, and in spring from landslides.  Minibuses with 4-wheel drive can obtain special permission to travel on the route.  Most local people use shared taxis ...