Murghab

Murghab lies over the border with Tajikistan, 420 km from Osh, at 3560 meters above sea level. Surrounded by the Eastern Pamirs, it is a good place to serve as a starting point for trips lasting from one day to a week, in order to explore this remote region … visit the 11th Century mining town of Bazar Dara – with its petroglyphs, (perhaps the highest in the world); to the Tanymas valley and Jaiang petroglyphs; to the Pschart valley (with spectacular landscapes and numerous archaeogical sites); from Batchor to the Langar Pass, Jashilkul and Buluingkul; to Gumbezkol and to the Fedjenko Glacier; a camel trek to Rang Kul, Jal Boruluk, Mukor and Kokutor; to the Shorolu area with meteorite craters and stone figures (it is thought to be an ancient solar calendar – dating from between the 9th and 2nd centuries BC); to the Madiyan valley and hot springs; or to take a photo-safari for various forms of wildlife including Marco Polo Sheep.

Archaeological excavations have shown that human habitation in the region dates back to about 8500 BC. There are seven routes based on Murghab which offer a chance to explore the history of the region combined with experiencing the landscape and nature of this remote wilderness.

The town of Murghab has a population of about 6500, and lies at the center of a plateau which forms the basis of the Murghab rayon – and which covers about a quarter of the territory of Tajikistan and almost half of Gorno Baluchistan … bordering Kyrgyzstan, China and Afghanistan. The land lies at altitudes between 3500 and 7495 m above sea level and mainly consists of mountain deserts and glaciers. It is a poor region, which was heavily subsidized in the Soviet period. Following the collapse of the USSR, many of the conditions have deteriorated …for example: there is no electricity supply … whilst unemployment and migration has increased.

In 1891, a Russian military outpost, Shah Jan, was created here – which was renamed Pamirski Post, two years later. It served as the military and administrative center for the region and was a major trading post with Kashgar. It also played a role as a “listening post” in the “Great Game”. Following the Revolution, contact with Kashgar was severed and this isolated region remained cut-off for over 60 years. A border crossing with China over the Kulma Pass has now re-opened, for commercial and local (Tajik and Chinese) traffic, but not yet for tourist traffic.

Almost 90% of the 14000 rayon’s population are ethnic Kyrgyz.

From the Northwest of the town it is possible to see Muzghat Ata peak (7456m) in China (“The Father of Ice Flows”).

Because of the altitude, it might be wise to spend some time acclimatizing and explore the town, visit the local museum and craftshops.

The Road south from Osh (420 km) passes through the Gulja valley, crosses the Transalai valley (towered over by Peak Lenin), through the village of Sary Tash, and then onto the Kyzyl Art pass (4282m) – and Tajikistan. Sixty kilometers over the border you come to the Kara Kul lake (=”Black Lake”, a fairly common name in Central Asia), which was created by a meteor about 10 million years ago, at 3941m above sea level, where it is possible to stay overnight. Alternatively, it is possible to proceed straight onto Murghab over the Ak Baltai Pass (= “White Horse Pass” – 4655m). At times, the road follows close to the Chinese border. The journey takes between 8 and 12 hours depending on road conditions, stops, etc.

Because permits are necessary for this region, it may be better to travel from Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, where these can be arranged. There are two roads between Murghab and Dushanbe (960 km): One crosses the Tavildara Pass through the Western Pamirs, (which is closed in winter months), and the other goes through the spectacular gorge of the River Piandj, (which is undergoing re-construction, and when this is complete should be available all year round). Both trips require a minimum of 2 days.

The META (Mrghab Ecotourism Association) is a local body which offers accommodation and a number of itineraries in the Eastern Parmirs, and is supported by ACTED, UNESCO and the Swiss Development Corporation – some details are available from our Bishkek office.

Here is a quote from the BBC website about the project:

“In Murghab, in the high-altitude plateau of the eastern Pamir, a network of ecotourism guesthouses has been set up by the French aid organisation ACTED (Agency for Technical Co-operation and Development).

Visitors can stay in houses with local families in houses, or in summer in yurts. The cost is reasonable for most foreigners, but the income is a big help to local residents.

"Thank goodness for the foreign tourists who come here," said Yrys, a mother of three who rents two rooms to visitors in Murghab.

"I had 70 guests last year. There are no other jobs here so that money makes all the difference.""