Kashgar

Crossing the border from Kyrgyzstan, over the Torugart Pass, or the newly opened (2002) Irkeshtam Pass, the first major town is the Uighur city of Kashgar – the farthest-west city in China.

Kashgar is most famous for it’s Sunday Market, (“Asia’s most mind-boggling bazaar, a technicolour sea of people.... a photographer’s dream”). The Bazaar is actually open everyday – but on Sundays, it overflows into the streets and surrounding quarters and the population of the town (normally 180000) swells by 50000 with traders – the Barbers, the animal market, household goods, fruits and vegetables, carpets and all manner of goods can be bought … and there are many magnificent opportunities for spectacular photos – bring twice as much film as you think you will need, and then some more.

Other sights include : the Id Kah Mosque, the old town, the Abakh Hoja tomb (which includes the “tomb of the Fragrant Concubine”), the tomb of Yusup Has Hajib, the tomb of Ali Arslan Khan, Ak Mazar, the regional museum, the People’s park, East Lake Park, the San Xian Caves, the ancient city of Ha Noi and the Mor Pagoda.

Kashgar was also the scene of a struggle for influence between the British and Russian empires – both seeking inroads into the lucrative Chinese Markets, at the end of the nineteenth and beginning of the 20th centuries. It was a city of Kipling’s “Great Game” with both empires establishing a consulate to promote their own interests and hamper those of their rivals.

In the grounds of the Seman hotel is the building which was the Russian Consulate, (a small, squat, yellow structure that, according to one writer, resembles “a miniature St. Petersburg palace”). The consulate wing of the hotel features murals of hunting scenes with titles written in Cyrillic and, in the common rooms, oval conference tables which would be “perfect for plotting intrigues against the English crown”. Although it appears “slightly shabby”, it has “character” and some of our clients, (including modern-day British diplomats), recommend it for it’s atmosphere. The heating system, however, is apparently not that efficient – and it has also been recommended that we suggest it to clients only in the summer months.

Central street of Kashgar In the grounds of the nearby Chini Bagh hotel is the remains of the former British consulate. For those familiar with the accounts of Mary Macartney – it doesn’t bear much of a resemblance to the humble accommodation that welcomed her after a long and difficult journey across Asia. Originally it had been a modest sized native house surrounded by a garden, and the name "Chini Bagh" means "Chinese Garden". By 1913 the consulate had shown its importance to safeguarding the fortunes of British India and had the staff had grown. The original building was demolished and replaced by a twenty roomed, European style, building surrounded by a high protective wall. The name, and he garden - which had been lovingly tended by Lady Macartney during her 17 years in Kashgar - were retained.

In 1905 the British Consul in Kashgar, (George Macartney) had discovered that the Russians had built a 27 foot wide road from At Bashi in Kyrgyzstan to Torugart and for about half a mile into China itself. A major player in “The Great Game”, he reported to his superiors that the road could easily be “made good” and should Russia choose to annex all or part of Xingjian province, then this was the route along which their troops would come. In 1906, the Chinese government gave in to Russian pressure and agreed to complete the road using a loan from a Russian bank - recouping the money by levying tolls - and Russian merchants were given a monopoly of trade along the route. The Chinese, however, were not happy at this arrangement and set the tolls so high that the road soon fell into disuse and disrepair.

There is an airport – but only serving domestic flights – there are plans to upgrade the airport at Kashgar for international flights - but this may be some time away. (There are, however, some international flights from Kashgar. Apparently, for example, there are now (2004) flights to Islamabad twice a week – Tuesdays and Saturdays, it is a ‘stopover’ on the Urumqi-Islamabad flight – and there is airport tax of 90 yuan. We don’t know of any other destinations served from the airport.)

The rail link from Urumqui to Kashgar is finished There are daily flights to Urumqui. The rail link to Urumqui, 1400 km distant, has been completed and there are daily trains – the journey lasts over 24 hours. There are discussions about extending it into Kyrgyzstan – and beyond - but this is going to take some time. It is also possible to travel by road.

Onward journeys are possible to Tashkurgan, (via Lake Karakul – and the “Father of Ice Flows” – Muztag Ata) and the Karakorum Highway into Pakistan; around the southern Karakorum Desert through Yengisar, Yarkand and Hotan; even beyond to Tibet.

The Bazaar – Kashgar is perhaps best known for its Bazaar – which is open every day – but is transformed every Sunday, when the whole population of the surrounding countryside seems to descend upon it. Owing to its favourable position, at a crossroads on the ancient Silk Road, countless merchants from all over the world would go to Kashgar, and even today, it is said that over 100000 traders from all over China, Central Asia, Pakistan, India, Afghanistan, Russia, and even Eastern Europe come to the market. The bazaar seems to retain much of its ancient character so that it is easy to understand why the city was given the name "the pearl on the Ancient Silk Road". Bazaars, especially in Central Asia, are the focus of daily activity and by 11 o’clock it can be so crowde3d that it is difficult to move. It is possible to find some stalls that seem to sell everything whilst others specialize, selling local produce, arts and crafts, garments, knives, timber, coal, and animals. Kashgar is especially famous for its delicate knives sold in the streets by hawkers. It is also a hat-making center (hats are very important – helping to define one as belonging to a particular community) and certain sections of streets are devoted entirely to the selling of hats and beautiful fur-lined headgear. Blacksmiths' shops can still be found lining both sides of the street. Colourful painted wooden saddles are on sale, and you can pick your dinner from a choice line-up of goats' heads and hooves. Local Uigur and Kyrgyz products can be found in the western part of the bazaar - while the eastern part houses stalls selling household goods and hardware.

"Abakh Khoja Mausoleum” - Located 5 kilometers (3.1 miles) northeast of the city of Kashgar, it served as the family tomb of Abakh Khoja, the powerful ruler of Kashgar in the 17th century who was revered as a prophet, considered by some to be second only to Mohammed, himself. It was first built in 1640, and all five generations of the family are buried inside. It housed 72 tombs in all, until an earthquake destroyed some of them. The first person to be buried here was Yusuf Hoja, a celebrated Islamic missionary. Later his eldest son, Apak Hoja – who died in 1693 – was also buried here and as his reputation was even greater than his father's, the tomb was renamed "Abakh Khoja’s Tomb". The different buildings include the Tomb Hall, the Teaching Hall and the Great Prayer Hall. The Tomb Hall, with its 17-meter diameter dome is covered with glazed green tiles. Inside the hall, the tombs are decorated with floral patterns on a white background. There is a legend that, among the tombs is one known as the Xiang Fei (“Fragrant Concubine”) Tomb built for Abakh Khoja's grand-daughter, Iparhan. She was the Fragrant Concubine of the Emperor Qianlong and she was called Xiangfei because of the delicate fragrance- or scent. When she died, 120 people spent three years carrying her coffin back to Kashgar and buried here. The Great Prayer Hall in the west part of the tomb is where believers still conduct services on holy days. The Lesser Prayer Hall and the gate tower are outmost buildings, decorated with colourful paintings and elegant brick carvings. It is the holiest place in Xingjian province and is considered to be an architectural treasure. During the Korban Festival, many Muslims from all over Xingjian make a pilgrimage to the tomb.

The Id Kah Mosque is the largest in China and can accommodate 10,000 worshippers on a Friday afternoon. It is located in the center of the city and offers a stark contrast to the many Chinese-style mosques found elsewhere in China. The yellow-and-white building has a central dome which is flanked by minarets. Shakesimirzha, the ruler of Kashgar, had the mosque built in 1442, and it was extended over the years to its present size. The different buildings in the complex include a Prayer Hall, Teaching Hall, a gate tower, a pond and some auxiliary rooms. The main hall is made of timber with a decorative wooden ceiling and the ceiling is supported by 140 carved wooden pillars. (Generally the decoration is simple and plain – white floor tiles and red rugs – unlike the more ornate mosques found in the Middle East or in South Asia.) There is a stepped throne and on Friday's (or Corban), the first Mullah addresses the worshipers ("Wa'az") standing on the steps. The grounds with small gardens and abundant shade provide locals with a popular place to gather even when prayers are over. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter during prayer times.

The Mor Buddhist Pagoda – a 12 meter high, “almost featureless” mound of mud (according to one travel writer), but it is the most significant remains of what was the Tang Dynasty settlement that later developed into the Kashgar of today.

The "Three Immortal Buddhist Caves" are located just 18 kilometers North of Kashgar. Hewn from the cliffs some 10 meters above the riverbed, these caves date back to the 2nd or 3rd century, ranking them as the earliest Buddhist caves in Western China. With an intriguing rectangular shaped entrance, each cave contains two chambers. (The front chamber measures 4 meters square while the rear ones are just half of that.) No murals have been preserved in the central cave because of reconstruction work which took place in the Qing Dynasty. In the left-hand cave, however, about 70 murals survived, including a painted Buddha, whose cassock is painted in sapphire blue and chocolate, (which is very rare in early Buddhist murals). The caves are difficult to reach because of the precipitous cliff-face in which they are carved and are virtually inaccessible to the public, especially during high-water periods.

"Shipton's Arch", (known locally as Tushuk Tash – which means “pierced rock”), is the world’s tallest natural arch and is located not far from Kashgar. The location is fairly remote and the Guinness Book of World Records dropped the reference to it in some editions because they couldn’t locate it and verify the fact. Apparently it lies in a different direction out of Kashgar than was originally reported.

It is called Shipton’s Arch after Eric Shipton, a British diplomat who also doubled as a mountaineer and. In 1940 he was appointed to the post of Consul General in Kashgar, a post he held until 1942, and he also served a second time between 1946 and 1948. It was during a diplomatic mission from Kashgar to Tashkent in 1942 that he noticed an immense natural arch about 10 miles from the road. (Actually, according to account written by his wife, Diana – they both wrote books which included a description of their experiences in China – it was she, who first noticed it.) He was not able to explore further on that occasion – and it was only in 1947, on his fourth trip through the canyons of the Kara Tagh range searching for the route to the rock formation, that he finally arrived at the rock formation which is now commonly known as “Shipton's Arch.”

Shipton estimated the height of the arch at “close to 1,000 feet.” – that is, just over 300 meters – and with a span of about 150 feet – that is about 46 meters. In May 2000, National Geographic organized an expedition to the base of the arch – and they discovered it was actually over 450 meters high – with an opening estimated at just over 365 meters (apparently they didn’t measure it).

It is not easy to visit – but a couple of companies (Caravan Café and Snow Lion Expeditions) apparently offer it on their itineraries.